The beautiful city of Split

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Split is a costal town, oddly reminiscent of Southern California. Palm trees, beautiful ocean, ancient architecture and cobblestone houses. No, wait, that last part isn’t at all like SoCal. Split has a lot of things to see, and most people spend the majority of their time in the old quarter. The old quarter has a market place, a small surrounding area of older streets and their apartments, and, in vast majority, Diocletian’s Palace.

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The palace is a beautiful, massive fortress, with multiple squares and dozens of tiny, squigly back alley style streets that are hard to navigate but full of interesting restaurants and shops.

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It was built around 300 AD as a retirement house for the Emperor Diocletian. Half retreat and half garrison, it was heavily fortified and at times housed over 9000 people. Today it stands as the world’s most complete Roman ruin. It really is magical to see – the majority of the palace is intact and its towers, plazas, and tunnels are endlessly interesting to explore.

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The majority of the palace is well preserved and is in active use today. Some portions – mostly along the seaside souther wall – have decayed into a state of not-quite-ruins. The structure amazingly holds itself together even there.

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The towers that watched over the sea and city are a focal point even today.

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Outside of the architectural beauty, there’s a lot of shopping in the old city. As with any good tourist location, businesses big and small have set up shop to sell clothes, souvenirs, and food.

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The plazas under the towers are a main gathering point – hundreds of people will sit at the cafes, smoke, sip, and talk. Here we got a taste of what Italy might be like – there are a lot of Italian visitors, and they and the locals love to sit for hours.

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The smaller segments of the palace, tucked away from the main square, have been turned into twisting mazes of restaurants and apartments. The food in these is very good, especially the hard-to-find ones. Locals mostly go there, hoping to enjoy the city without the crowds.

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The apartments are mostly for rent to tourists, but from the looks of it some of them are actually occupied by residents of the city.

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Seating at these alley cafes is pretty limited, but that’s ok! The atmosphere is quiet compared to the bustling plazas.

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Sometimes the path takes you through an architectural tunnel. The ‘ceiling’ is a connector between two buildings up above.

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There is always more to see in the palace. We walked through it every day, and every day we found yet another section we hadn’t explored.

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In some parts of the palace, you can’t even tell it’s a colossal Roman construction anymore. This looks like a tiny village, not part of a fortress.

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From some parts of the palace you can see the water. This is the view from a restaurant we ate at, and the food was just as fantastic. We’re not even sure how we got there!

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Next time : sights from outside the palace!

 

Cartagena’s Castillo San Felipe de Barajs

Note: We’re back from our trek on the Salkantay! During the next few days we’re resting in Cusco, so I’ll put together a map and day-by-day of our hike and post it here. Until then, more backlogged posts.

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The Castillo viewed from the city-side

On the hill just outside of Cartagena’s walled city sits the hulking lithic form of the Castillo San Felipe de Barajas. Begun in the year 1536 and expanded several times, this fortress stands as a tribute to the value Spain placed on Cartagena as a strategic location and trading port. The Spanish constructed the Castillo in seven independent sections, whose range of cannonfire overlapped. Any enemy who managed to take one section of the fortress found themselves under fire from at least another two sections, making capture of the whole fortress nearly impossible. The design was so effective that in 1741 a garrison of only 3,600 Spanish soldiers stationed at the fortress were able to repel a British force more than 7 times their number (27,000 soldiers and 186 boats). The soldiers at Castillo San Felipe sank 70 boats before the British gave up.

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A plaque dedicated to the expansion of the Castillo

Visiting is a must if you’re in the city for two reasons: the Castillo’s preservation is impressive (it’s now a UNESCO World Heritage Site) and it offers great views of Cartagena. You can find hours and prices here, but there are also discounts for students and Colombian citizens. Depending on your walking speed and interest, you could spend anywhere between 1 and 3 hours at the Castillo.

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The Colombian flag flies over Cartagena at the top of the fortress

 

Prep and getting there:

Holy blazing tropical suns, it’s hot at the Castillo during the day and the only shade is in the network of tunnels within the fortress. To prepare, we’d recommend bringing the following things to deal with the tropical sun: at least 1 liter of water for two people, a hat, sunscreen, and a light long-sleeved shirt to block the sun.

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Don’t worry if you forget your hat–there are always vendors willing to sell you one…at a price

In terms of getting there, try to arrive when it opens and avoid noon-2 pm, which are the hottest parts of the day. To get there, walk 5-10 minutes out of the Walled City along Calle 30—this area of the city is safe during the day, and even in the evening we had no problems traveling as a pair. You can also take a taxi, but try not to pay more than 8,000 pesos (as of 2016) from the Walled City to the Castillo.

Things to see while there:

In the morning start with the outside of the castle, from the turrets to the massive Colombian flag over the city.

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The top of the Castillo, with the ramparts and chapel

Visit the ramparts where the cannons still stand, the small bastions in the Castillo’s corners now full of graffiti, and the chapel-and-snack-shop to get a feel for how insanely huge the fortress is. The higher ramparts offer great views of Cartagena on a clear day.

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The chapel bell, the highest point on the Castillo.

 

Then as the sun heats up, dive down into the tunnels within the fortress for some relief.

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One of the many poorly-lit tunnels beneath the Castillo.

Many of the short ones (for the storage areas) will look similar, but there’s a set of tunnels that will take you around the perimeter, then out to near the entrance. We’d also recommend the barracks tunnels because they dive deep into the fortress before meeting a fairly eerie dead end.

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A dimly-lit bulb shines in the tunnels beneath the Castillo.

This section of the tour is of course not recommended for claustrophobic people, or for the matter very tall people; at tallest, the tunnels accommodate someone roughly 5’8”, and some places the tunnels shrink to as short as 5’. But it’s amazing to imagine that soldiers moved, worked, slept, and lived within these tunnels hundreds of years ago.

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A chute that provided air and ventilation to the soldiers’ barracks in the fortress.

Eats nearby:

It’s not street food, but once you’re done at the Castillo you can head to the nearby mall Plaza El Castillo (complete with air conditioning and all you can tolerate shopping) for a bite to eat. The food court there has all the grilled meats your heart can desire, as well as vegetarian options and our beloved Don Jediondo. The restaurant chain Crepes and Waffles also offers vegetarian options and a beautiful range of decadent desserts and ice cream, as well as lovely views of the city.

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Men fish at dusk in the saltwater channel that separates the Walled City and the rest of Cartagena.