Jogja/Maliboro

After spending a few days in Borobudur and Prambanan, we’ve moved to the Maliboro district in the heart of Yogyakarta (Jogja) proper. We’re here to eat food, rest a bit, and people watch. And on a street lined with multi-story malls housing American fast food brands, traditional batik clothing outlets, and pop-up vendors cramming the streets with cheap souvenirs and delicious food, we couldn’t ask for better. Maliboro is an artery for the city’s commuters that thickens to a crawl during rush hour. It’s also where the newly affluent middle class comes to shop, where a panoply of shopkeepers flood onto the streets to sell their wares, where everyone mixes and mingles. There’s always something to see.

Stoytcho and I roam the streets, ducking between people and capturing what we can on a camera with reflexes too slow for life here. On one occasion, I’m staring out into the flow of traffic and watch in awe as a man with a dozen sacks of rice and a crate of fruit on his scooter deftly weaves between cars. I shout to Stoytcho, “WHOA, did you see that?” “No,” Stoytcho replies, “I was distracted by a chainsmoking ten-year-old shopping for a lighter.”

IMG_2006
Two girls play near a monument to Indonesia’s revolutionary heroes, along Jl. Maliboro.
IMG_1747
Men work in a ditch along Maliboro, further complicating the daily rush hour.
IMG_2079
Angklung performers shut down Maliboro as they protest a ban on musical street performances. Their signs read variations of: “We are artists, not vagrants.”
IMG_2944
A performer plays the angklung on Maliboro, in defiance of the street performance ban.
IMG_2656
Women shop for bridal accesories at pop-up shops in one of Maliboro’s malls.
IMG_20170411_093853
Our backpacks rest at the Packer Lodge in Yogyakarta.
IMG_20170416_002412698
Stoytcho rests in the lobby of the Packer Lodge in Yogyakarta.
IMG_2975
Ojeks and cars crawl along Jl. Maliboro in rush hour.
IMG_2705
Two women try to cross the street.
IMG_2720
People gather and walk the street in the evening at Maliboro.
IMG_2973
The late afternoon sun through a sculpture.
IMG_2894
The narrow walking corridor between shop stalls on Maliboro’s west side. Stoytcho towers over everyone here.
IMG_2796
A neon sign for a batik clothing store.
IMG_2781
A man attempts to cross the street with his food cart.
IMG_2810
A scrambled egg fries in a hot wok before rice and seasoning are added to make nasi goreng.
IMG_20170414_194908
Light and color in the night: the view from a food stall off Maliboro.